Search This Blog

Friday, January 18, 2019

Leftovers

   Leftovers. Clean out the fridge day.  I have heard it referred to as "cream of the 3rd shelf" when talking to restaurant cooks about their plans for Sunday brunch.  "What's for dinner?"  The children ask, then roll their eyes and implore.  "Can't we just order pizza?" All because of those dreaded words "leftovers."

  I have witnessed the same confused and disappointed look on a Sunday brunch patron as they gaze into the chaffer that is labeled Shrimp Tetrazzini or Seafood Newburg.  As they are questioning the validity of the claim, and searching for the seafood, they are thinking, this looks a lot like the Coquille St. Jacques last week when I couldn't find the scallops, and they are right! 

   In a restaurant, the most successful managers develop a plan, a way to utilize the ingredients, by finding numerous places for them on the menus, and in daily and weekly features. Leftover baked potatoes become potato skins, leftover mash might become a potato, cheddar soup, and so on and so on.  This process really should be planned before you open a restaurant with carefully researched instead of a copycat menu.  Sometimes a new chef or k.m.(kitchen manager) may have little control of an already-established menu so they will look for places to offset expenses and help with food cost, as well as exercise their creative tendencies.  I have told my wife many times you can tell a lot about a restaurant by the soups they serve. 

  I think you can take the same approach at home  Come up with a plan. When you're done cooking a whole chicken, make chicken soup.  Pot roast can be turned into pot pie or even fajitas.  Doesn't have to be expensive or fancy to be good, and simple can be made to look fancy and expensive. Some of the best places to dine are "holes in the wall."  I still dream about a late night burger in a pita, I used to get from a dive bar back in the early '90s.  I have had $50 steaks that were over-cooked and tough as hell. 

    I've yet to master the ability to cook for only four people.  Hence, our fridge is always full and in danger of spilling over.  The wife has no problem with heating up soup and looks forward to enjoying eggplant on a second day  The girls are happy to make the occasional p,b&j when my services are not available, but that's about where the graciousness ends. Yes, the leftover routine can get old. In the hands of the less experienced and creative cooks, even mundane or downright awful.  I mean microwaving day, old pizza should be a sin but we have all done it.

  I actually look forward to cleaning out the fridge, just like I did the walk-in.  It's the same feeling you get from finally cleaning out your car and getting rid of all those coffee cups and wrappers, that the kids shove in the seats.  It feels new again plus you often find a couple of bucks and a handful of quarters, which means a bonus coffee or chicken biscuit for the week. 

   I suggest taking a long look in your fridge before you have decided there is nothing to eat. Pull out the leftovers like Tuesday's pasta and New Year's black eye peas.  Examine the cast-off celery sticks and half a pepper and onion.  Grab the on its way out wilted spinach, and last two slices of bacon in the meat drawer.  Then take these items and turn them into a twist on pasta fagioli by adding a little garlic, some and Italian seasoning.  That's something to be proud of. You can brag about your skills when it comes out great or laughs about that horrible black-eyed pea fagioli next Thanksgiving.  Either way, you've learned something and are a step closer to making good use of those leftovers.  It's where I have done some of my best work.  

  Recipes and cookbooks to me are mostly inspirational.  That is unless I am baking.  The ingredients are notable. The amounts, glance worthy at best.  The instructions and method, if I don't know those by now, I should retire.  Recipes, methods, and portions are most important for new cooks and are needed for consistency, especially in a restaurant. Still, you might be surprised by how many restaurants don't have them.  That's why your burger or fish and chips tastes different this week than last at your local pub.  The food may even vary daily, lunch to dinner depending on whose running the line or prepping that day

   I remember a long time ago, members were outraged over the change in the chicken salad at a golf club. " It used to be so good and now tasted dry and completely different, " they said.  Well, it turned out that the cook who had made it for 20 years just retired.  He had decided long ago that deli roasted turkey breast tasted better in the recipe, but never told anyone or and wrote it down. It was his secret recipe, and it finally made sense on why they went through so much turkey with only one sandwich on the menu.  People who have worked in the biz realize this kind of thing happens all the time in restaurants. While recipes and methods are crucial to running a good business they have little to do with Thursday's leftovers.  

   I hate throwing anything out, wasting a thing. It's true the best ingredients are the freshest.  That doesn't mean you can't cut out the bad spots on an over-ripe avocado, turn soft tomatoes into a marinara, or serve milk after the expiration date.  I employ the smell and taste test on all things before I take an expiration date at face value.  If I can't get cell service in all points of my house, how do they know the exact date my milk goes sour?  It's the best guess based on time, temperature and handling which is all random and mostly uncontrollable once products leave the plant.  So making leftovers is more an art than science and sometimes a leap of faith.

  The all so popular fusion cooking going on today can be done from most any one's fridge using that leftover fried chicken, a little soy, some random veggies and a piece of fruit.  You just have to break the recipe down, get to what gives it flavor.  Realize a dish like kimchi (one of my favorites) is basically old cabbage.  It's been fermented, salted and spiced and given a little time to achieve those flavors, but that doesn't mean you can't use what is left of the cabbage to make a kimchi-inspired dish.  Chutneys, sambals, and many other exotic sounding sauces are nothing more than a balance of vinegar, sugar, and spice.  That sugar could be in its natural form, or as honey, or it can come from fruit, a red pepper, even a carrot.  The acid could be any type of vinegar from plain white, to balsamic, to rice or red wine.  It can be a lemon, lime or orange.  The spice could be hot sauce, curry, garlic, pepper or a blend.  A pico de gallo (rough cut salsa) can be made from the last tomato, with a little onion and lime juice, fresh squeezed or bottle, with or without the cilantro.

    Don't be scared.  Take a minute and go through your fridge.  Pull out that limp zucchini, last potato, tomato and onion out then google a curry recipe. You will be surprised what you can make with what you have.  It will make you a better cook, plus it may expose you and your family to a world of new flavors.

   My last recommendation is herbs and spices.   My wife likes a dessert that is nothing more than sliced bananas and chopped walnuts, sprinkled with cinnamon and drizzled with honey.  Cinnamon is the key.  Heated or unheated, it's simple and delicious. Make sure your pantry is stocked with a variety of spices.  Do check every so often and throw out that nutmeg you bought two years ago to make pumpkin pie.  Or, better yet, make a curry or rub that incorporates it before it loses its flavor.  I have seen nutmeg used in dishes from moussaka to classic whipped potatoes.  Also, fresh herbs are great, and we grow a lot of our own but dried also serve a purpose.  I usually incorporate the dried at the beginning of dish or while cooking and the fresh at the end, right, before serving. Herbs and spices are the keys to better cooking and a better life. 

  Remember when working with new ingredients you can only be defeated by your lack of imagination and unwillingness to try. What's your best dish, recipe or specialty?  I've been asked many times over the years by a friend or customer.  I might throw them a bone by highlighting some classic, but more often than not, I believe it's the last thing I've cooked, when I had to improvise, using what I had in front of me.  Necessity is where invention is born.  I am sure to get the eye roll and the sigh this morning when the girls ask me what's for dinner, but it's my favorite night of the week, we're having leftovers.  

 

Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Lentils, Quinoa and Kale. Oh My!

   Lentils, quinoa and kale seem to be rapidly working their way into our social conscience as healthy cooking and eating option, and are ever-present on our dinner table at home. I never  gave them much thought during my early professional career, and it really wasn't until recent years when these items seem to be making their way to restaurant menus everywhere.  Heck, you can get bowls of chicken and quinoa, or lentils, veggies and brown rice at your local Starbucks.  For a while, Chick-Fil-A was offering a superfood salad featuring kale and broccolini, and even McDonalds added a kale, turkey sausage and egg white breakfast bowl to their menu.

  Some of these, may seem to be passing fads or trends, but the truth is,  there is something to it.  We have become a nation obsessed with food, and as more information (good and bad) is revealed about what we are eating, there seems to be a movement to know not only what is in that food, but also how it is made or grown and where it is sourced.

   Organic, local, natural, and farm to table are all buzz words that grab our attention.  Sometimes they are helpful, sometimes misleading and sometimes they just don't mean a damn thing.  Organic may be strictly monitored, if it has a USDA seal, but what do you really know about that designation?    You can slap a local sticker on any food produced in a 400 mile radius.  Whole foods says local is 200 miles. I consider myself a local to Signal Mountain, but I am familiar enough with it to call Chattanooga home since it's only 15 minutes away.  I don't believe anyone 2 1/2 hours away in Atlanta or Nashville would ever call me for directions, recommendations or offer me a local's discount there.

  There is no legal definition to natural, and please don't get me started on farm to table.  I consider this to be one of the most over used and misleading phrases of all.  Few restaurants really source their food this way, its impractical and expensive.  If they do it doesn't mean their holding or cooking methods are any better. It usually means I am going to pay a lot more for a lot less because the chef or owner took a little artistic license with the menu.  It's like calling something confit because its been pulled apart or Gorgonzola when it's crumbled bleu cheese delivered in a 5lb bag.

  I must admit, I can be a little suspicious.  My wife has called me "the jaded chef."  Still, the world has shrunk, information has never been more available, and we are fortunate to live in the land of plenty so there is no lack of options of where we can purchase our food.  Healthy is in, my wife is on board, (has always been on board), and has now hired me to cook and accommodate this lifestyle and pass it on to our children.  It has made me a little healthier, slightly more aware and, in all, a better chef. There are recipes, spices and flavors I am discovering daily that make me yearn less for red meat, and I find myself shopping at various places with a discerning eye to labels as well as price tags and spending a lot more time in the produce section.  My wife's mother who is in great shape and beautiful woman in her early 70's attributes much of her health to shopping the outside aisles in the grocery store.  Think about it.

    Lentils, quinoa and kale can all make their way to our weekly menus in some form.  My wife is constantly coming across new things she wants to try and I have many texts forwarded from recipes she has found on Pinterest.  Lately I have been leafing through a vegan cook book she fell in love with, Tahini and Tumeric.  Yes, I said vegan. Don't worry, while it contains great recipes with cool photos, it's more of a guide or starting point.  I rarely stick to script and have no problem substituting chicken broth for veg or incorporating shrimp or fish to the dish and adjusting spices and amounts to my liking.  It does have a few great soup recipes,  which she loves and I have tweaked.  One is a really flavorful "root vegetable" with lots of turmeric,  and the other I made yesterday,"red lentil garlic and cilantro."   A pot will last a week, and it's easy to heat up in the evening.  It's great and very warming on cold winter nights.  She also packs it up and takes it to work to share with her friends, and it has become a regular request.

   Take large 1 gallon pot, lightly cover bottom with olive oil.  I mostly use a decent blend, virgin or extra.  Add 4-5 T (7-8 cloves) chopped garlic, saute but don't brown, stir in 1/2 bunch chopped cilantro, 1 diced red. yellow or orange peppers, 1T salt, add 8 cups veg or chicken stock bring to simmer, add 1 cup of red lentils, 1/2 cup of quinoa, stir and bring to boil .  You could use 6 cups of broth but I prefer to have it a little soupy.    Reduce to simmer cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour, stirring occasionally.  In the last 5 or so minutes add 8 oz of chopped kale or spinach.  Finish cooking then turn off and cover  Add the other half a bunch of cilantro chopped and 1 fresh lemon squeezed, return cover and let sit until cool.  Can be served right away or put up for following day.  You can always adjust the spices, salt and pepper to taste and add as needed.  I like this the garlic and love the cilantro in this one.   It's  pretty simple and straight forward.  The lemon juice at the end as well as finishing with fresh herbs only serves to heighten the flavors.

    I call this soup "garlicky, cilantro, red lentil, quinoa and kale"  You can see where I got this blog's title.

























Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Eggplant or Aubergine?

  The very first time I remember seeing an Eggplant, I was 17yrs old and living on a 43ft cement hulled sail boat  We were heading from the Carolinas to Venezuela and parts unknown to search for gold. Both the search and the gold never did materialize.

   Liz was the 40 odd year old British matriarch of the vessel.  Liz liked to walk around on warm, breezy days, topless, and never did seem to mind the very embarrassed American teenage boys on the vessel, who must have seemed hilarious trying to avoid any and all eye contact with Liz and her husband and sons.

  Liz introduced this odd vegetable she called an aubergine (ah-brr-jean) to our diet by serving it in a foreign stew she referred to as ratatouille (long before Pixar's beloved rat flick).  As far as food goes this was as close to a life-changing event as I have ever experienced.

    Up to that point in my young adulthood, I had never thought I liked, nor would I  try any vegetables outside of canned corn and that little side dish of peas & carrots included in Swanson's delicious turkey t.v. dinner.

   I can still picture those wan veggies now on that gleaming silver tray, nestled right next to the vibrant cherry like cobbler, two doors over from the oh, so buttery instant mashed potatoes but making the most space for a slice of turkey atop something that resembled crunchy stuffing finished with a tan, gelatinous gravy substance.  It was a mainstay in the home of my youth, and I was raised pretty much vegan-opposite.  (This is sure to come as no surprise, if you read my blog/feelings on tomatoes.)   Salad was what my dinner ate.  My steaks, pork chops and fried chicken never needed an introduction, and only played well with their potato friends.  

    So the first time I saw the eggplant/aubergine it was presented with it's ami the courgette
(coor-zhett}  French for zucchini, which I believe I had previously seen and mistaken for a cucumber. Liz took these new to me vegetables introduced  by their French names, cut and layered them with peppers, onions and garlic in a basily tomato sauce.  She then baked them in a Dutch oven type dish, and presented them as dinner. The ratatouille usually made an appearance at the table next day as well. Liz would always say foods like this were better the next day, and she was right.   It was simple, colorful and beautiful to look at.  It smelled delicious and most of all tasted like nothing I had eaten to until that point in my life.   Despite my reservations, I was hooked, and would crave this Provencal French dish for years to come.  I have tried to recreate this dish hundreds of times, and though I have received many positive and even rave reviews, it has never tasted as good to me as it did then.

    That experience really opened my eyes, my mind and palate to new possibilities.  I muse on it today as I am preparing one of my wife's go-tos, Eggplant (aubergine) parm. The dish I make for her is pretty simple and straightforward.  First, I take one decent sized aubergine, leave skin on, slice in 1/4 inch rounds and the soak in pan of salted water for couple of hours. An old Italian chef once told me it helps remove some of the bitterness from the larger more seeded ones, plus I like the flavor it adds, and old habits die hard.

   For the marinara I find a decent can of diced tomatoes with oregano and garlic, usually three cans will do, plus a small can of tomato sauce.  The wife likes a lot of sauce.  I then dice two medium sized onions, and sweat/saute in a large pot over med heat, with three- yes 3T of chopped garlic, add a 1T or half handful of sugar, and 2 tablespoons of Italian seasoning then cook till onions become translucent and garlic aromatic.  (Don't burn the garlic.) I then add the opened cans of tomatoes, and tomato sauce and stir well. I let this simmer, for about an hour, then partially puree with my emulsion/brr mixer (restaurant lingo) and finish with fresh oregano or basil just before service.  Classic marinara asks for basil, my wife prefers a bit sweeter sauce with oregano, akin to a pizza sauce- but it compliments the eggplant well

  I have turned the oven on 400- removed the eggplant from water, patted it dry , sprinkled with garlic and a pinch of  salt then topped with Parmesan and bake for about 10-15 minutes until cheese is golden. I then cover a baking dish with marinara lay out usually 3-4 slices of eggplant add a sprinkle of feta, or mozzarella.  I really like fresh mozzarella on this. I think the wife prefers feta.  I then add more marinara, and repeat until we run out of eggplant.  There are usually 3-4 slices of eggplant in a stack.. The stacks are topped with cheese, covered and baked for 15- 20  minutes then served.  I like it with pasta, angel hair or penne.  The wife likes it with a side of sautéed spinach.

  The girls, well despite our best efforts and proud regaling of their cosmopolitan appetites. They're  still kids and as much as I would like them to eat eggplant, I usually end up pan frying or baking  a couple of chicken breasts. Even at home the customer is always right, and I need to cater to the pickiest of needs.  Plus, a chef has to pick his battles. Though they know they don't like eggplant, they seem to really love the aubergine in my ratatouille.   I am sure that may change soon as my youngest is taking French this year.  I guess I will have to start using berenjenas instead.

  

Monday, January 14, 2019

I hate tomatoes!!!

   Tomatoes.  I hate them!  Well mostly... Cooked in a marinara, added to a curry or stew, even pureed with cream in a soup, all beautiful. However, the thought of eating a raw tomato on a sandwich, gushing its essence against a beautiful slice of country wheat bread, or crusty baguette starts my gag reflex.  I know this kind of thought can be sacrilege, especially to those living close to tomato country, like Grainger County, Tennessee, where tomatoes hold a special place almost equal to the Vols or Peyton Manning, but I would argue that God got a little busy the day he created them and didn't quite finish the job.

  Now, sprinkle them with salt, toss with olive oil and crushed garlic clove, add a chiffonade of basil, maybe even fresh mozz and I'm in.  Or maybe diced up with onion, chopped cilantro, and a squeeze of lime juice and pass me a chip.  You can even roast those little sweet grape tomatoes like I did this evening with kosher salt, garlic, olive oil and a balsamic drizzle and mix them in with the sautéed spinach and finish with crumbled feta- my wife's request)- A dish she and the kids love (sans spinach, for the kids) and I find pretty it enjoyable.
  
    But....raw tomatoes, on their own. No sir!  And I would have to say,  I have run into so many folks in my thirty plus years of cheffin' who feel the same way, that I think any argument for or against the infamous vegetable/fruit would be split down the middle. Still it gives me pause.

  What kind of example am I setting for my children, or anyone who might find their first bite of a Grainger County red that leads them to a life long love affair with the produce?  I have trained and tried to explain to many cooks that a good chef  should know what flavors he or she is working with.  You may have an a well developed sense of taste and a good understanding what ingredients work well together, but until you have actually tried the food you are leaving a lot to chance.  If you don't sample it yourself, how are you going to know if your tomatoes are really sweet, slightly salty mealy or even bland?  I must confess on this tomato front, I have been a hypocrite.  I loathe the thought of swallowing a fresh tomato yet to much the chagrin of many shocked onlookers, I have been known to not shy away from a pinch (even a handful) of raw hamburger from time to time.  I will occasionally cut off a small slice of a cherry, or brave a wedge of heirloom, only to flash back to that day long ago when I was 7 or 8 and my aunt standing hand on hip in that double wide, shaking her Pall Mall at me, forced me to swallow the fresh tomato she had so lovingly cut, for me. I fought and screamed against the idea even when she offered the oh so tantalizing addition of Wonderbread and Miracle Whip.  Three guesses which part of the country I'm from.   She swore she knew what was good for me. She could tell I needed the iron and she was worried.   I was sickly looking and anemic, and would never grow.  If she could see me now, 250 odd pounds later, her fear would be relieved and then some.

  I guess my disdain of the raw tomato has turned into a begrudging admiration, even a fondness, and set me on a quest for what new ingredients I might combine with it to make it palatable to my delicate senses.  It has been a journey.  While the tomato has slowly earned my respect if not my love, it has won over one of my daughters, and this despite the warnings of their not so chefly father.  It usually makes at least a weekly appearance on our dinner table in some way, shape or form.   So, I guess there is hope for our relationship yet. Still, if any one asks, I hate tomatoes.

Applying for the job

    My wife often jokes that the reason she married me was my penne vodka.
    I didn't realize at the time I was applying for my current position fourteen years later, and if I had of known, I would have probably left that dish off my resume and highlighted  one my favorites like pork osso bucco, a black and blue ribeye or even crawfish pasta. If I had, I probably wouldn't have gotten the job. As obtuse as I was, I would not have considered appetites and tastes outside of mine.  I was a chef, I knew what was best, what people (customers) would want to eat and how they should eat it and if it did not coincide with my culinary expertise, then it was due to their uneducated palate.  To be honest, there are times I still struggle with that today, but I have come a long way because she did say yes, and all these years later I believe that my skills in the kitchen have been enhanced by the experiences learned cooking for my wife and two daughters.  
   No, I don't currently hold the title of chef in my own or some local restaurant, I don't spend 12-15 hours a day on the line, or roaming the front of the house. I am not constantly thinking about what cook or waiter didn't show up and what position I might have to cover. I am not worried about a surprise visit by the health inspector when the water heater or the compressor on the walk-in just quits working. I not yelling at our reps about the state of produce, or constantly shopping them against each other for better prices to  better control food cost because my bonus depends on it. I'm not trying to constantly keep up with current trends like locally sourced, or farm to table while trying to see how many different items we can sous vide or how to integrate sriracha, pomegranate, or kambucha to our menu or today's feature.  I am not thinking about  how left unsupervised my cooks might  cross contaminate or mix up a customer's order ending up possibly killing that older lady at the two top with a shellfish allergy.  I don't spend my days concerned about  how many  gluten friendly,  and vegetarian/vegan options we have available to an ever more discerning public. It doesn't bother me to close the kitchen a few minutes early after a busy night and risk a late walk in causing the sous chef walking out.
   No, for now those days are gone. Although at times stressful, there are many things about that crazy way of life shared by so many, that I miss. However, I have actually grown in leaps and bounds lately, both as a chef and a person. I have been challenged culinarily as never before. No longer am I surrounded by all those things many chefs take for granted: six burners, large stock pots, dozens of saute pans, convection ovens, commercial mixers, walk-ins filled with produce, heavy cream, fresh fish, steaks, stocks and demis, mise en place for days, fresh herbs and racks of spices.  Now my resources have been four burners ( I still insist on gas), a one door reach in, a kitchen aid, a couple of decent knives, a drawer full of spices and a small closet pantry
     Today I cook at home for my wife, and two almost teenage girls.  My wife has become a pescatarian (veggies and fish, NO RED meat, no pork or chicken, and no I can't feed her lamb).  I haven't made penne vodka in some time, although my oldest made the attempt and while her mom reveled in her creation and her friends loved it,  I had to be honest and tell her I could taste the burnt cream, that they didn't seem to be aware of. (I know, I know). The girls, well they are becoming more teen aged and their tastes fluctuate as much as their moods.  I still love a good steak, enjoy sautéed duck breast and yearn for foie gras.   But my tastes have had to evolve as I age, and try and keep up with my ultra fit and healthy wife, and every new vegetarian dishes she might discover.There are at least a 1000 ways to cook lentils, quinoa. spinach and kale.  My daughters have ever changing palates and crazy ideas that we can have lobster and crab bisque or Kraft mac and cheese at any given time (my fault, both).  Then I must attempt to combine all of our food yearnings and present some semblance of a dinner that makes every one happy.  Some days I nail it, and some days not so much. Like most who chose the profession or more like it chose me, I still cook because I have an immense passion for it.  I relish the instant gratification and joy shown by others when they are enjoying something you created.  I cook for my family daily, waste no chance to invite others over or volunteer my skills when possible. This blog is a way for me share some of that journey with you, while keeping some kind of record of the dishes I've made.  
    Hopefully it will provide you some joy, inspiration or maybe even laughter, tracking the success and failures sure to come from my current job as my wife's chef.