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Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Eggplant or Aubergine?

  The very first time I remember seeing an Eggplant, I was 17yrs old and living on a 43ft cement hulled sail boat  We were heading from the Carolinas to Venezuela and parts unknown to search for gold. Both the search and the gold never did materialize.

   Liz was the 40 odd year old British matriarch of the vessel.  Liz liked to walk around on warm, breezy days, topless, and never did seem to mind the very embarrassed American teenage boys on the vessel, who must have seemed hilarious trying to avoid any and all eye contact with Liz and her husband and sons.

  Liz introduced this odd vegetable she called an aubergine (ah-brr-jean) to our diet by serving it in a foreign stew she referred to as ratatouille (long before Pixar's beloved rat flick).  As far as food goes this was as close to a life-changing event as I have ever experienced.

    Up to that point in my young adulthood, I had never thought I liked, nor would I  try any vegetables outside of canned corn and that little side dish of peas & carrots included in Swanson's delicious turkey t.v. dinner.

   I can still picture those wan veggies now on that gleaming silver tray, nestled right next to the vibrant cherry like cobbler, two doors over from the oh, so buttery instant mashed potatoes but making the most space for a slice of turkey atop something that resembled crunchy stuffing finished with a tan, gelatinous gravy substance.  It was a mainstay in the home of my youth, and I was raised pretty much vegan-opposite.  (This is sure to come as no surprise, if you read my blog/feelings on tomatoes.)   Salad was what my dinner ate.  My steaks, pork chops and fried chicken never needed an introduction, and only played well with their potato friends.  

    So the first time I saw the eggplant/aubergine it was presented with it's ami the courgette
(coor-zhett}  French for zucchini, which I believe I had previously seen and mistaken for a cucumber. Liz took these new to me vegetables introduced  by their French names, cut and layered them with peppers, onions and garlic in a basily tomato sauce.  She then baked them in a Dutch oven type dish, and presented them as dinner. The ratatouille usually made an appearance at the table next day as well. Liz would always say foods like this were better the next day, and she was right.   It was simple, colorful and beautiful to look at.  It smelled delicious and most of all tasted like nothing I had eaten to until that point in my life.   Despite my reservations, I was hooked, and would crave this Provencal French dish for years to come.  I have tried to recreate this dish hundreds of times, and though I have received many positive and even rave reviews, it has never tasted as good to me as it did then.

    That experience really opened my eyes, my mind and palate to new possibilities.  I muse on it today as I am preparing one of my wife's go-tos, Eggplant (aubergine) parm. The dish I make for her is pretty simple and straightforward.  First, I take one decent sized aubergine, leave skin on, slice in 1/4 inch rounds and the soak in pan of salted water for couple of hours. An old Italian chef once told me it helps remove some of the bitterness from the larger more seeded ones, plus I like the flavor it adds, and old habits die hard.

   For the marinara I find a decent can of diced tomatoes with oregano and garlic, usually three cans will do, plus a small can of tomato sauce.  The wife likes a lot of sauce.  I then dice two medium sized onions, and sweat/saute in a large pot over med heat, with three- yes 3T of chopped garlic, add a 1T or half handful of sugar, and 2 tablespoons of Italian seasoning then cook till onions become translucent and garlic aromatic.  (Don't burn the garlic.) I then add the opened cans of tomatoes, and tomato sauce and stir well. I let this simmer, for about an hour, then partially puree with my emulsion/brr mixer (restaurant lingo) and finish with fresh oregano or basil just before service.  Classic marinara asks for basil, my wife prefers a bit sweeter sauce with oregano, akin to a pizza sauce- but it compliments the eggplant well

  I have turned the oven on 400- removed the eggplant from water, patted it dry , sprinkled with garlic and a pinch of  salt then topped with Parmesan and bake for about 10-15 minutes until cheese is golden. I then cover a baking dish with marinara lay out usually 3-4 slices of eggplant add a sprinkle of feta, or mozzarella.  I really like fresh mozzarella on this. I think the wife prefers feta.  I then add more marinara, and repeat until we run out of eggplant.  There are usually 3-4 slices of eggplant in a stack.. The stacks are topped with cheese, covered and baked for 15- 20  minutes then served.  I like it with pasta, angel hair or penne.  The wife likes it with a side of sautéed spinach.

  The girls, well despite our best efforts and proud regaling of their cosmopolitan appetites. They're  still kids and as much as I would like them to eat eggplant, I usually end up pan frying or baking  a couple of chicken breasts. Even at home the customer is always right, and I need to cater to the pickiest of needs.  Plus, a chef has to pick his battles. Though they know they don't like eggplant, they seem to really love the aubergine in my ratatouille.   I am sure that may change soon as my youngest is taking French this year.  I guess I will have to start using berenjenas instead.

  

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